When one thinks of the Rione Trevi, the Trevi fountain is probably the first thing that comes to mind. Although the fountain is a main attraction in this Rione, the area is dense in history, culture and character. Exploring the area and interacting with the residents of this Rione has opened my eyes to more about this area than just its’ spectacular fountain.
The Rione Trevi is very rich in history. Of the twenty-two riones, the Trevi is Rome’s second and was founded in 1763 by Pope Benedetto XIV. The name Trevi originates from the middle age word “Trivium” which means the crossing of three roads. This crossing of these roads occurs where the current Trevi fountain is today. The Rione Trevi’s coat of arms entails three swords, which is derived from these three roads. During the time of the Roman Empire, wealthier people lived up on the hills of the Rione. After the fall of the empire, people moved down to the river and construction on the higher parts of the city came to a standstill. It wasn’t until the Renaissance that the hills surrounding the Trevi became populated with new streets, churches and fountains.
Today, the Rione Trevi includes the busy Via del Corso, the Trevi Fountain, the Palazzo Barberini, the Palazzo del Quirinale and more than twenty churches. The Rione Trevi extends from the western side of the Quirinale hill and the plain between this hill and Via del Corso. It borders to the west on Pigna, to the south and the east on Monti and to the north on Colonna and the walls of Rome. It is one of the larger riones and includes a wide range of sites and regions of differing atmospheres.
The Trevi fountain is Rione Trevi’s most notable monument. It was completed in 1762 by Giuseppe Pannini and is the largest Baroque fountain. It was built to celebrate the end of Aqua Virgin aqueduct. This legend, which involves a young girl showing soldiers a spring that was the source of the aqueduct, is depicted on the upper panels of the fountain. Neptune, the god of water and the sea, can be seen in the center of the fountain taming sea horses symbolizing the mood of the sea. It is a tradition for tourists to come and throw a coin in the fountain wishing to come back to Rome one day. Thousands of tourists visit each day and according to a report by BCC, an astonishing 3000 euros are collected every day from the fountain and given to charity. This astonishing fountain is often the center of many top films including “Roman Holiday” and “La Dolce Vita.”
Upon arriving into the Rione Trevi for the first time, it is easy to get caught up in the touristy atmosphere. Souvenir shops, street vendors and restaurants in every language line the small winding streets leading to the Trevi fountain. The piazza in front of the fountain is a central social gathering point for many and there is always a constant chattering and energetic ring in the area. The bustling buzz of the tourists definitely livens the area. This image of the Rione Trevi is what most visitors take away from their visit. After talking to a few of the tourists visiting the fountain on one of my visits, it became apparent that visitors coming to the area rarely explore the Rione Trevi other than the fountain.
We talked to a Swedish couple visiting Rome for the first time, which helped get the true tourist perspective of the area. Their perspective differs from mine since I do not consider myself a tourist visiting the city and instead a short term resident. This couple would view the area in a different light since they wouldn’t have an extensive amount of time to explore. They were only in Rome for four days and were hitting all the top sites on their visit, which included the Trevi fountain. Although they thought the Trevi was immense and remarkable, they had not planned to explore the area any further. Since many visitors don’t explore the Rione Trevi other than the fountain, I think it would be interesting for tourists to try and escape the tourist traps around the fountain and explore more of the surrounding area. Hopefully, tour books will include insights on exploring more of the area around the Trevi fountain since there are a lot of cute shops and beautiful buildings with a lot of character in the surrounding area.
The atmosphere beyond the Trevi fountain is filled with small winding streets lined with apartment buildings and small cafes, shops and restaurants at their base. Walking around beyond the fountain I feel as if I have entered an entirely new area. Here is where the “insiders” of the rione Trevi live. They distance themselves from the touristy “outsiders” that tend to congregate around the Trevi fountain. About one block out, the constant hum of tourist’s excitement fades as people’s routine daily life and chores fill the streets. People carrying groceries, shopping in local stores and grabbing cappuccinos were common errands seen while wandering beyond the fountain. There is a distinct border that defines who belongs and who doesn’t depending on how far away from the Trevi fountain one is. As I meandered through the area surrounding the Trevi fountain, I didn’t necessarily fit the tourist description but was definitely characterized as an “outsider.” This was because I was not Italian and wasn’t completely familiar with the area, which made me stand out.
It is evident from just wandering through the Rione Trevi, that it’s wealthy. Vibrant and elegant buildings line the streets and the residents dress as if they are of a higher status. Security guards stand in front of luxury apartments impeccably decorated and full of character. Women dress in fine furs and walk with a purpose. These are all evident signs that the area is of higher economic status. The fountain is what brings the tourists to the rione and in turn a lot of money. During one of my visits to Trevi, we spoke with an ice cream vender who informed us that the Rione Trevi was an extremely expensive place to live. She could not afford to live in the area and instead commuted from outside the city walls like many other store owners in the Rione. Through both my observations and speaking with the women at the ice cream store, it became evident that this area was extremely wealthy.
Art is evident throughout the Rione Trevi. Between the vast amount of sculptures and fountains scattered throughout to the beautifully constructed buildings and churches, art is visible everywhere. In particular the Triton fountain is one of Rione Trevi’s most artistic fountains in my opinion. This fountain was the first of Bernini free standing urban fountains and was built in 1642. The fountain depicts Triton, a minor sea god, with four dolphins at its base. The Triton fountain strikes a dramatic artistic presence in the middle of Piazza Barberini. This piazza is immense and the fountain’s location in the middle draws lots of attention on the elegant fountain. Although there are many elegant statues and buildings throughout the Rione Trevi, I found it very difficult to see any evidence of graffiti or tags of any sort. This is most likely due to the higher economic class of the area.
Overall, exploring the Rione Trevi in greater detail has opened my eyes to better understanding the area’s monuments, culture, history and residents. As a young college aged student living in Rome and exploring the area, I am sure that I got a different take on the area than others. For example, I was not impressed with the area directly surrounding the Trevi fountain due to the high amount of traffic as well as the numerous shops geared to lure in these tourists’ money. Someone visiting Rome for the first time might absolutely fall in love with this area and view this rione as being representative of all of Rome. In this way, people’s impressions on the Rione Trevi differ greatly. In the end, my impressions of the Trevi area changed drastically after my return for this assignment. In the beginning, I had always viewed the area as strictly for tourists, a place where one could not get the full “Italian experience.” Little did I know that only a few blocks away lay lavishly painted winding streets filled with quaint cafes, shops and smaller hidden restaurants. This assignment has taught me to look beyond what the tour books tell you in order to really get a feel for the area and its culture. I hope that in my last few weeks in Rome, I am able to return to the area and further explore to be able to deepen my understanding of the area.
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